Wednesday, May 27, 2009

The Dalai Lama, cupping and biffing it...

Yesterday was a big day. I'll try to fill you in the best I can, but for some reason time here seems warped to me. Yesterday seems like a week ago, a week ago seems like a month ago. So strange. A week ago today I was at the Taj Mahal, and a lot of us in the group were commenting that it seems like ages ago. Bizarre.

In any case...yesterday. I was up at 5:30am for our 6:00am walking departure to see the Dalai Lama at his temple. May is considered an auspicious month in the Tibetan culture as Buddha became enlightened during this May. Once a year the Dalai Lama has a special ceremony in the temple for the people. He also blesses the "precious pills" on the 26th of May. Precious pills are the most potent Tibetan medication that is produced here. We went through security with only our passports and the clothes on our back. There were metal detector passageways and we were also searched. A few armed guards were scattered about when we arrived. As the hours went on you could sense he was closer as more and more guards became apparent. I found presence of armed guards ironic as the Dalai Lama stands for non-violence, but obviously it was necessary.

For three hours we sat with Tibetans as they chanted in unison out of their prayer books. There is a sound system there where a monk was leading the chanting for the people. The temple is an open air square to explain it simply. The first tear of the square was reserved for hundreds of monks. Then the rest of the square meant for the locals and lay people. There was a large group of elderly Tibetan woman sitting in front of us that reminded me of church ladies from the Midwest. A fellow student sitting next to me, Linda, had her knees exposed which bothered the Tibetan woman next to her very much, so much so that the elderly woman kindly pulled down her skirt a bit to cover her knees. I guess the Dalai Lama would be offended? The elderly woman, Linda and I got a good laugh about this. Tibetan monks came out two times to serve the crowd Tibetan bread and butter tea. Yes, butter tea. I need to research how this is made when I return home. Not to make it, but just to see how it is made. Ummm...yeah...not so great for those with the Tibetan trots.

At 9am the Dalai Lama walked over from his home to the temple. He had an entourage as he walked up the stairs from the street below, circled the temple, and then went to his respective place at the front and center of the temple. As he came up and was seen, everyone stood and started doing prostrations. Prostrations are when one has their hands in prayer position, then puts their hands to third eye center, mouth, heart then down on ones knees and finally forehead to the ground and back up to standing again.

I had a good view of him. He looked happy as always and you could feel the buzz of excitement in the air by his presence. After he sat the service started up again. We stayed for about an hour and left as we had to get to class. Overall the most interesting part was watching all of the people before hand socializing, laughing, eating bread and drinking the butter tea. Although the ceremony was considered very special, the atmosphere was much more casual than I expected. It was quite comfortable and lovely.

We went to class for the day where we learned accessory healing techniques from a Tibetan physician, including cupping. The physician wanted a test patient, so I of course raised my hand to be the guinea pig. I've got some pretty fascinating photos from the experience! I look like I have 3 huge hickeys on my upper back. Totally worth the experience. My classmates and I are still laughing about it today.

On a side note, I was getting ready to take my bucket shower this morning when I realized that I needed to get shampoo out of my suitcase. I put on a towel and walked out into the room where my roommate was eating breakfast in her bed as she hasn't been feeling well. My flip-flop slid on the wood floor, I went flying and so did my towel. So, yeah. I skinned my knee off and was wet and naked on the floor as my roommate witnessed the whole thing. So classic. I couldn't stop laughing. So ridiculous! It was so good travel bonding.

Last night was really an amazing experience as we met and spoke with the Oracle. Today we met and spoke with the Karmapa, the third highest ranked Tibetan leader and the head of the Black Hat Karma Kagyu sect of Buddhism. (There are four branches of Buddhism, he is head of one). I'll have to write about it tomorrow. I'm too beat to continue on. I hope my writing makes sense and sounds somewhat intelligent and cohesive as I write these at the end of the day and am ready to fall into my bed.

Best to you all-
C

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